miércoles, febrero 22, 2006

Hermenéutica del Atascaburras


(Para Melò, que me sugirió la sábana, y para Copias, que lo añora.)

De que le vi llegar con la albarda en la mano, dije: a por la burra viene.” Esta sentencia resume la lógica de las tierras raras. Es una lógica de martillo y yunque: sencilla aunque eficacísima, sin necesidad alguna de interpretación o matización. La cocina es hija directa de la lógica; y de la necesidad, claro. ¿Qué se puede hacer con patatas, huevos, ajo, aceite y el único pescado que sobrevive a la infinita distancia al mar de estas tierras de frontera? Ajoarriero manchego o, por más poético decir, atascaburras. Plato de rápida factura y fácil deglución, igual sirve para el niño que para el viejo desdentado, que no deja de ser un niño con melancolía. Y aporta los tres principios inmediatos en cantidades equilibradas. Eso lo comprendemos ahora; nuestra historia, en fin, no es más que intentar comprender lo que de siempre se ha sabido. El inicio de la intrahistoria del atascaburras, tiene mucho que ver con el pilpil pues, al igual que los vizcaínos, comenzamos por sofreir ligeramente en buen aceite, y a fuego mínimo, unos ajos laminados impidiendo que lleguen a tostarse. Cuando las láminas se rompan sin dificultad bajo la leve presión de una cuchara de madera, habremos conseguido su sazón. Separaremos el frite del fuego, y lo dejaremos a su amor hasta que la ley del enfriamiento que formulara Newton se cumpla y su temperatura se iguale a la de la cocina. Por otra parte, habremos desalado durante doce horas, cambiando el agua un par de veces, un par de buenas porciones de lomo de bacalao. No es menester llegar a su completa rehidratación, pues la sal que aún conservan será la que el plato lleve. En abundante agua, llevaremos los lomos de bacalao hasta que comiencen a producir esa espuma blanca y odorífera que, a más de contentarnos el estómago ante la perspectiva, nos avisará de que ha llegado el momento de retirar del fuego. Si nos pasamos en el tiempo de esta breve cocción, el pescado quedará seco y zapatero y, salvo que queramos elaborar un “plato-homenaje” a la nada mental, no debemos alcanzar dicho punto de sobreguisado. Pelaremos y lavaremos cinco patatas medianas que, troceadas sin miramientos, coceremos, éstas sí, unos veinticinco minutos acompañadas de un par de huevos. No es que la operación precise de particular valor o viril gallardía: es que el plato requiere dos huevos duros. Y ya lo tenemos todo. Majaremos hasta convertir en finas hebras los ajos con una miajita de su aceite; pelaremos los huevos y separaremos variables: las claras serán, entonces, finamente troceadas; es también el momento de deshojar el bacalao, que ya tendrá una temperatura apta para ser manejado sin quemarse. En un recipiente semiesférico truncado por su base (de otro modo no sería fácil la operación, al menearse éste como un tentemozo), mezclaremos las patatas, las hojas de bacalao, la picada clara de los huevos y el majado de ajo y, ayudados por un tenedor grande de madera, empezaremos a majarlo todo, añadiendo chorreones generosos del aceite frito y frío. Proseguiremos la operación hasta que la patata deje de pegarse al tenedor: ése es el momento, señores. Alisaremos la superficie, por mor de la refinada presentación y, provistos de un rayador metálico, haremos añicos una de las yemas –ahora ya amarillas esferas– espolvoreándola sobre el guiso. Un manojito de berro artísticamente colocado en el centro, dará una nota de prescindible color. Se puede tomar templado, es decir, justo después de guisarlo, o dejarlo un buen rato hasta que se enfríe por completo. Personalmente, prefiero la primera opción. Lo podemos acompañar, albarda sobre albarda, con un Airén del año, más aún en este tiempo cuando ya el vino, embotellado hacia mitad de diciembre, ha adquirido todo su cuajo. Si el Airén fermentó en barrica, la felicidad será tal que veremos disiparse las nieblas que cubren estas tierras raras y hasta brotará de nuestra sesera un haiku manchego:
Melancolía
En el plato la nieve
Atascaburras

102 Comments:

Blogger Melò Cucurbitaciet said...

Oh!
Maravilloso, excelente, bellísimo.

(y esta vez, ¡el plato lleno ante nuestros ojos!)

((y con la posibilidad de extender la fotografía))

(((¡Dios, qué disciplinas Pa, qué disciplinas)))

11:43 a. m.  
Anonymous Lacónico said...

Hago un esfuerzo estomacal para felicitar a D. Prota y decirle que ajo arrieritos somos y después de 15 de tratamiento contra el helicobácter, en el camino nos encontraremos....un abrazo.

12:47 p. m.  
Anonymous Lacónico said...

15 días.

12:48 p. m.  
Anonymous Incorrecto said...

mmm. A estas horas y yo pensando en un atascaburras...

12:53 p. m.  
Blogger Don Erre que Erre said...

Ya lo se, me pueden llamar todo lo que quieran, pero... Por que se llama atascaburras?

3:43 p. m.  
Blogger Protactínio said...

Porque como no lleve el suficiente aceite, puede convertirse en un engrudo capaz de hacer éso precisamente: producirle un atasco gástrico a una burra.

(Lo cual es bastante frecuente en las burras, burros, mulas y équidos en general.)

((Y se ponen muy malitos, no crea.))

5:07 p. m.  
Anonymous copias said...

Muchas gracias buen amigo.
Aunque yo no tengo mañas voy a intentar melò hacer.

6:35 p. m.  
Blogger marquesdecubaslibres said...

Pro, que dice la marquesa, muy preocupada por la inaguración del pintor, que el vino que pone el galerista debe ser lamentable. Por ello le requerimos nos compre una caja de 12 botellas del Torre de Gazate 2005, y que este finde nos haga la entrega en el Zulo.

7:49 p. m.  
Blogger Enrique Gallud Jardiel said...

Querido amigo:

Como reconocimiento a sus lecturas y comentarios en mi página me permito felicitarle a mi vez por la suya y obsequiarle con unos cuantos pareados de publicidad para su blog, de los que puede usted disponer a placer.

Suyo,
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«Para un sutil escrutinio
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7:51 p. m.  
Blogger Protactínio said...

Muchísimas gracias, Enrique. Emplearé los pareados (citándole a usted, claro) cuando publicite mi blog chez Arcadi.
Un placer.

8:06 p. m.  
Anonymous Lacónico said...

o-
D. Prota ¿me permite una cucharadita de este sabroso plato?
Ummm...al helicobácter también le ha gustado...gracias.

12:23 p. m.  
Blogger Protactínio said...

Me alegro, Laco.

(Pero no alimente a su helicobácter, que ya lo dice el dicho: cría helicobácters y te saldrán por un ojo.)

((Lo que no dijo el que dijo el dicho fué por qué ojo.))

12:39 p. m.  
Anonymous Lacónico said...

No, si creo que con esta dosis de antibióticos me deben de quedar unos treinta, ahora, desde luego, dan una guerra...

12:55 p. m.  
Anonymous Lacónico said...

Hay un helicobácter que debe tener turbante y todo y que...no vea como jode...

12:57 p. m.  
Anonymous Lacónico said...

en fin, maestro que me voy a poner de lado un ratito, a ver si se calman...hasta lueguito...

zpqce: le juro que me ha salido.

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Blogger Librepensadores said...

Su conversión del atascaburras en joya para relamerse merece que le prepare una receta sorpresa. No seré yo quien la haga (un asesino en serie de la cocina), sino la socia informática del Blog, que prolonga su habilidad entre fogones.
Su receta se huele.
(Buscaré en Valencia su vino del año) Librepensar

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